Picture of the week

Picture of the week

Tuesday, May 25, 2010

A day at Chosspile

Alex on T-pex

Alex on the crux dead point of T-pex. There still is no bicep.

Starting up the crux

Chilling out and visualizing the moves

Trying to look hardcore

Alex on the starting moves of T-pex

Me on the crux of the doom on a stick project

on the crimps just before the crux

Getting pumped high off the ground

On the first stage of the proj

The doom on a stick proj

Ebert on the giant flake of T-pex

Looking awesome well trying to.

Ebert, AKA Captain Blankie

One of the awesome and huge Black Eagles we saw that day

Alex trying to prussic up the static to take photos

On a huge jug of T-pex

Smiling for the camera

The clip

On the huge flake

Alex trying to be spiderman but it wont help overcome the sending drought

Why chalk up when you on a huge jug?

Nailing the crux dead point

Oh check out the retro hair band. Oh don't tell Alex its pink.

Multi-tasking on the way to Chosspile

Today Ebert, Alex and I drove out to Chosspile to do some hardcore, intense climbing. We got there a little later then expected but hiked in quickly to make up for lost time.

Alex wanted to get onto T-pex as he had tried it the week before with Pw. I wanted to try flash it as Alex said that the route was amazing. But I was more focused on my Doom on a stick project. Ebert wanted to send Gollum, even though he didn't really enjoy the route.

So the day began with Alex putting up the draws on T-pex. He looked smooth and confident and I thought to myself he will get it next burn for sure.

After that i went up and put the draws on my Doom on a stick project. its actually not even my project its open but nobody else has sent it so I basically just call it "my" project.

Then when I got down i belayed Ebert on Gollum. Ebert hadn't climbed in a while and looked a little shaky but I thought he would hang in there for the send. But things didnt go quite so well for Ebert and he popped off in the beginning. He worked the route and put up all the draws, but he said he wasn't enjoying the route at all, so I told him to try T-pex and work it with Alex. He liked that idea and said he would rather do that.
Ebert then placed a static up on Gollum's chains so we could hang off and take photos. Ebert then got into his shooting position and we passed him up the camera to take photos of alex on T-pex.

Alex then went for his first real burn of the day. He jumped on and looked solid but then seemed fooled by the route about 5m up, I dunno if he messed up his sequence or he was just shy because Ebert was taking photos but he bailed early on the route. Ebert was tuning him non-stop after he bailed.

I was up next and I was nervous after watching Alex bail early on the so called easy stuff. Anyway I tried to put that behind me and went for the send. I climbed smooth but I was a little pumped, anyway i got to the crux dead point but didn't stick it.

Ebert then had a go at T-pex but he was hopeless, I think it was just one of those days when your not on form at all. He worked the route while Alex was taking photos and videos of him and mocking both of us at the same time.

Then it was time for my first proper burn on my project since cleaning it and figuring out if it was actually possible. I climbed all the way up till the final two moves of the route where the stopper crux is and went for the dyno but couldn't stick it.

Alex then went for his final burn on T-pex since the day was coming to an end. I was taking photos of him in a nearby tree and he looked super solid and smooth. he got all the way up to the crux dead point but bailed. He then cleaned the route and watched me on my last burn on the proj. I got to exactly the same spot as the turn before but before cleaning I found some beta on the crux that will make it easier for me to send.

One of the sights that made my day was seeing a beautiful pair of Black Eagles, which are nesting right above Fossil fuel, come in to land and take off. They are huge! It was truly amazing.

Thanks Alex and Ebert for an awesome day of laughs, smiles and Adventure.
Hope we can do it again

Wes b